Kyffin & Anglesey

During primary school days, I lived in that world-famous tongue-twisting village in Anglesey, just over the Britannia Bridge which straddles the picturesque Menai Straits. The village we locals, for ease of use and efficiency call Llanfair PG!

It must have been around 1983, when, in my last years of primary school, the teachers went on an unusual strike - for a whole summer-term we were required to entirely vacate the school grounds at lunchtimes. Thrilling for us kids but worrying for those parents who couldn’t pick up their pride-and-joys at 12pm for a 60 minute recall. And worrying even still for the residents of the village, as every weekday they saw an invasion of excitable splinter-groups aiming to make the most of their escape from educational imprisonment.

I spent those liberated lunch hours down at the village railway station with another likely lad. Not trainspotting though…instead we had an eye on making a few quid! 

In the peak season, tour buses would arrive throughout the day at the famous station with (normally) American tourists eager to get their Kodaks out to capture the elongated platform sign. My fellow entrepreneur and I would invite ourselves on to each bus before it set off again to its next Anglesey destination. With the tour-guide’s microphone in our hand we would sing to a tune (that I can still recall to this day); Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwll-llantysilio-gogogoch. Then the tour guide would prompt us to walk down the aisle of glory as the smiling passengers plied us with coins, sweets and compliments. This Dickensian-type scheme was a lucrative business for a ten-year-old and our packed lunches were followed by ice-cream cone desserts once the spoils were shared.

Llanfair PG railway station is the first island stop if you are coming by train from the mainland, and the first Anglesey village you come to when you drive across the Britannia Bridge. Peel off the A55 after the bridge, and you are immediately in the village. The famous railway station is then another mile further down the road, but before you get there you, will see a lovely woodland on your right. Towering above, in the centre of this woodland, is a 89-foot tall Doric column topped by a bronze figural statue of Earl of Uxbridge, second-in-command under Wellington at the Battle of Waterloo where Uxbridge lost his right leg. In recognition of his bravery, Uxbridge was named The First Marquess of Anglesey. If you can muster the strength of 115 steps you can enjoy majestic views of Anglesey and the mountainous mainland from the top of the column.

After the woods on your right, take the next left and you are en-route to some of the best beaches in Wales and the world in my opinion. After about half a mile there is a turning to the left called ‘Lôn Pwllfanogl’. This bumpy wooded lane takes you down to the water’s edge of the Menai Straits and to a small cluster of waterside houses. 

This is where we find Min-y-Môr, which was owned by the 7th Marquess of Anglesey, a descendant of he who watches over the village from the top of the column. Min-y-Mor was the home to the most famous Welsh artist of the twentieth century who was a former friend of the then Marquess. We are of course referring to Sir Kyffin Williams.

During my bus-singing street-urchin days we would explore around the coastline of Pwllfanogl. We’d skim pebbles and walk across the rocky edge to another statue, this time of Nelson. When I was a lad, I distinctly remember the moment a friend told me that a famous artist lived at the house. Little did I know that forty years later I would have auctioned more paintings by Kyffin than any other auctioneer, that the company started by my father, David, would hold the world auction record for his work and indeed, that we would be instructed to value the artist’s estate when he died in 2006. It really is strange how things turn out – even though I never knew Kyffin well, he was in the background during my childhood and has, for twenty-five years been at the forefront of my professional life. 

In 1974, Kyffin decided to return to Anglesey to live after teaching at Highgate School. In his (amusing and highly recommended) second biography ‘A Wider Sky’, the artist explained how and why he ended up at Min-y-Môr after searching around Lord and Lady Anglesey’s estate for a suitable dwelling:

Kyffin was prolific and would venture out to sketch the Welsh landscape in all weathers. After moving out in his tank-like Volvo to do battle with the elements in long overcoat, flat cap and his battle-plan sketch book, Min-y-Môr would have acted as the officer’s retreat. A solace away from Kyffin’s artistic front-line in the shadow of the harsh mountain landscape. Pwllfanogl was a place where he could peacefully work his sketches into imposing oil paintings. I imagine that when inspiration was needed to get that final section of oil down on his canvas, there would have been a gaze towards the distant Carneddau mountain range across the straits, which can be seen from the cottage windows. 

Sir Kyffin painted the wonderful coastline too. Rough Seas at Trearddur was a subject he returned to on many occasions as were sunsets over the idyllic Menai Straits. It does seem that when the weather was too rough for the mountains, he painted Trearddur’s powerful seas and when it wasn’t moody enough for the mountains, he painted the Straits! 

One of Kyffin’s most popular prints is of the small hamlet of Llanedwen, a mile or so down the straits from Min-y-Môr and on the other side of Plas Newydd. Plas Newydd being the seat of the Marquess of Anglesey - Kyffin’s friend and landlord. This National Trust attraction is one not to be missed, beautifully set on the water’s edge, it will be familiar to many of viewers of Antiques Roadshow! At Plas Newydd, Sir Kyffin Williams’ paintings are on show, as is the work of Rex Whistler (1905-1944) including an 18-metre long fantastical mural which is bizarre as it is huge. It really needs to be seen to be believed! 

Opposite the infamous village station, next to the ice-cream shop, is the Penrhos Arms. A proper village pub where Kyffin was a regular. He wasn’t a drinker, but he enjoyed being taken out for a modest bar-meal with his many callers. 

Many of these places which were key to Kyffin’s existence are a walkable distance from Min-y-Môr where he lived for thirty years. But across and all around the island there are numerous places which acted as Sir Kyffin’s muse. He painted many large dramatic canvases of the unnerving cliffs of South Stack near Holyhead. He painted the beautiful solitary church, Eglwys Cwyfan, which sits resolutely on a small island near the beautiful Aberffraw. He also frequently painted the quieter corners of the island - like Llanddona, an area beyond Beaumaris and around Llanerchymedd with its old windmills, together with the cottages in Mynydd Bodafon, near the quaint port village of Moelfre. And at Moelfre he painted the coastal beaches and cliffs found easily on the amazing Ynys Môn Coastal Path. On a visit to Anglesey, these are places one can seek out and which have changed very little. Then, of course, there is the Eryri mountains which are easily reached from Llanfair PG, at its heart the bustling village of Llanberis, around which Sir Kyffin painted and produced numerous prints such as his popular ‘Fach Wen’. And from where you can walk upwards and feel those timeless mountain scenes of drystone walls, sheep pens and crumbling farmsteads, which drew Kyffin back to Wales.

But across and all around the island there are numerous places which acted as Sir Kyffin’s muse. He painted many large dramatic canvases of the unnerving cliffs of South Stack near Holyhead. He painted the beautiful solitary church, Eglwys Cwyfan, which sits resolutely on a small island near the beautiful Aberffraw. He also frequently painted the quieter corners of the island - like Llanddona, an area beyond Beaumaris and around Llanerchymedd with its old windmills, together with the cottages in Mynydd Bodafon, near the quaint port village of Moelfre. And at Moelfre he painted the coastal beaches and cliffs found easily on the amazing Ynys Môn Coastal Path. On a visit to Anglesey, these are places one can seek out and which have changed very little. Then, of course, there is the Eryri mountains which are easily reached from Llanfair PG, at its heart the bustling village of Llanberis, around which Sir Kyffin painted and produced numerous prints such as his popular ‘Fach Wen’. And from where you can walk upwards and feel those timeless mountain scenes of drystone walls, sheep pens and crumbling farmsteads, which drew Kyffin back to Wales.

But Kyffin’s legacy can be felt most strongly just outside his birth town of Llangefni, a fifteen-minute drive away from Min-y-Mor into the island centre. Here you can visit the gallery Oriel Môn, outside of which sits a statue by David Williams-Ellis, depicting Kyffin Williams sketching, facing his beloved mountains. Inside the Oriel is a spectacular permanent exhibition of his work that should not be missed.  

For those who are interested in art and for those who love the work of Wales’ best loved artist, a trip to Anglesey and to Pwllfanogl should be on the bucket-list. But to stay in Min-y-Môr would be the icing on the cake… and hopefully my other half will read this in time for my next birthday! I am sure I’ll be allowed to skim stones but singing on buses might be pushing it.

The Summer Welsh Sale to be held on July 26th is now online to view

Book a stay at Sir Kyffin's home 'Min y Mor and receive a 5% discount (use code: rogersjones5 )