Walking in Kyffin's Footprints

When the relentless pull of the auction calendar finally relents, there is nothing I love more than to lace-up the boots and take on the open trails of North Wales. Sometimes alone, and sometimes with old friends who share the enjoyment of freedom that the mountains and coastal paths gift us. Getting out into these landscapes is a great stress reliever, a spirit lifter, and for me, it releases that creative side of my brain. 

Clearly, it did for Sir Kyffin Williams as well. The mountains, rivers, valleys, farms, and ancient places, together with the wonderful beaches, were his muse. Here we walk some of the locations in July's Welsh Sale auction.

Our journey begins on the western edge of Holy Island at Porth Dafarch, managed by the National Trust. Setting off from this sheltered sandy cove, the incredible 125 mile circular Anglesey Coastal Path carries you right over these rugged headlands. Walking this stage of the path reveals a wild, windswept heathland blanketed in purple heather and brilliant yellow gorse, where the dramatic cliffs of ancient Precambrian rock plunge into the sea. High above, rare choughs wheel through the sea breeze, while grey seals bob in the swirling waters below. 

Standing on these clifftops, you instantly feel Kyffin's inspiration. This raw geography demanded his signature thick, energetic impasto style. Here, heavy blocks of dark rock clash violently against moving white foam under a volatile Atlantic sky that shifts from brilliant clarity to rain-soaked slate greys in an instant.

Not a recommendation but The White Eagle pub is my go to for a satisfying tipple - but there is plenty of choice in the nearby Trearddur area which has become a destination for dog walkers, surfers and cyclists.

Porth Dafarch Location

Our journey turns to the mainland where the coastal air gives way to the mountain majesty of Moel Hebog. 

A walk here may take you past weather-beaten stone farmsteads and old mountain streams, ascending steep, unforgiving ridges of loose scree and exposed rock. Reaching the summit rewards you with an epic panorama where peregrine falcons hunt across craggy faces and wild feral goats navigate the high ridges. 

Kyffin thrived in the melancholic isolation of these hills. Often draped in heavy cloud cover, this massive peak allowed him to deploy his signature sombre palette of slate greys and deep ochres, capturing the atmospheric tension of the North Wales wilderness.

Beddgelert is an ideal starting and finishing point for a Moel Hebog adventure with several good hotels to quench the thirst in this lovely picture-postcard village.

Moel Hebog Location

Continuing deeper into the uplands, we venture into the slate country of the Moelwyns and specifically Moelwyn Bach.

This mountain starkly arises from a landscape profoundly shaped by human hands. The path winds past cavernous, abandoned slate quarries, ruined stone cottages, and forgotten tramways before opening up onto wild, fractured volcanic stone. Red kites circle over the slate tips while hardy mountain sheep graze on the quiet slopes. 

The geometric terraces and blocky cliffs were a perfect match for Kyffin’s bold palette knife technique. He used dark greys and deep blues to sculpt the brooding, monochromatic weight of this industrial heartland directly onto the canvas.

You can reach Moelwyn Bach from various points, Blaenau Ffestiniog being the one with the most amenities, but also from Tanygrisiau and the tiny remote hamlet of Croesor.

Moelwyn Bach Location

From the slate tips to awe-inspiring Dyffryn Ogwen, a towering glacial trench carved deeply into the heart of the Carneddau and Glyderau ranges. Walking this stage feels like stepping back into an ancient world, navigating a spectacular tangle of massive boulders, cascading streams, and the dark waters of Llyn Ogwen. High on the inaccessible ledges, rare alpine plants cling to life while ravens perform aerial acrobatics against the sheer rock faces. Kyffin had a spiritual connection to Ogwen, using his palette knife to block out the monumental weight of the dark rock against white mountain torrents.

If I took one thing from my GCSE Geography and my teacher Mrs Smith's patience, it was the memory of an inspiring field trip to Ogwen and me trying to comprehend how this iconic valley was carved out by glacial forces.

For drama and for access to some of the most challenging walking in Wales - see Ogwen! The historic village of Bethesda is a great base for Ogwen, with plenty of hostelries and a Spar shop which has the best range of craft beer I have seen; all displayed clinically within a bespoke cool room which even has its own Facebook page! 

Probably the best spar in North Wales.

Ogwen Location

The Eryri village of Waunfawr is a locality Kyffin returned to paint on many occasions. A walk here explores the traditional dwellings and hill farms that seem to grow organically out of the rugged landscape. For walkers, the area offers spectacular trails like the Moel Eilio circular or the rugged hike up Mynydd Mawr, overlooking the stunning Nantlle Valley. 

Alternatively, following the Snowdonia Slate Trail out of the village takes you beneath towering slate tips and past abandoned workings—an evocative landscape that brings back fond personal memories of my own A-Level art photography project. 

I collected this particular painting from a lady in London - a true Londoner with little else of Welsh interest, she shared that she had been evacuated to Llandudno during World War II, attending the same school as my parents. Her fond memories of Wales were the sole reason she purchased this wonderful Waunfawr souvenir.

Kyffin shared the London vendor's misty sentiment, he saw these stone cottages and dry-stone walls as a timeless vignette of a disappearing rural Wales, using his palette knife to capture the moody, cloud-draped atmosphere.

One of my favourite walks is Nantlle Ridge and Waunfawr would be a great starting point. The ridge is considered one of the most dramatic and thrilling of ridge walks in the UK. On a warm sunny day there is nowhere better and the views are incredible. There's a great micro-brewery pub bang in the middle of Waunfawr.

Waunfawr Location

Returning to the peaceful shores of the Anglesey Coastal Path and to Penrhos Beach at dusk. 

After the raw tension and physical mass of the high peaks, this final stage of our journey brings a profound sense of tranquility. Tracking the edge of the island, the coastal path crosses wide sandy beaches, climbs low rocky headlands, and winds through quiet pine woodlands. 

Walking this shore as the sun goes down reveals the more meditative side of Kyffin's landscape. Rather than thick impasto, these scenes reflect vast horizons and the quiet movement of water. Watching the sun sink as a single, glowing red disk casting its reflection across a gentle sea, you see the coast exactly as he did—a quiet, monochromatic sanctuary where the changing light washes over his ancestral home.

Penrhos Beach, alongside neighboring Newborough National Nature Reserve and Forest and Ynys Llanddwyn (which can be seen in this watercolour jutting out in the distance), serves as the ultimate local hotspot for relaxation—though visitors should anticipate large crowds during peak times. 

Llanddwyn Island is regarded as the most romantic spot in Wales, home to St Dwynwen, the Welsh patron saint of lovers. While taking in the sensational views of Yr Eifl mountain range from this special beach, take care not to spoil the moment by tripping over a kneeling stranger with a ring.

Traeth Penrhos Location

The Welsh Sale takes place at our Cardiff saleroom. View the full catalogue online here.

Related reading: Kyffin's Island Muse · Kyffin's Spiritual Home